The Head Cast

We used Imperial BodyGel (IBG) for this particular procedure. Many people prefer to use LS-680. The procedure itself would be identical for either.

Here's a list of the materials we used:

2-3 lbs. of IBG
Ten rolls quick setting plaster bandages (cut into 6" and 12" strips)
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly
At least 20 pounds of gypsum cement (Hydrocast, et al)
You will also need:
Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)
Thermometer
A black marking pen
A large plastic bag or other protective sheet for subject
A tall chair
A mixing bucket for the Accu-Cast™
A water pan or bucket for wetting the plaster strips
A mixing bucket for the gypsum cement
An Electric Drill w/Jiffy Mixer (optional, Accu-Cast™ can be mixed by hand)
A smock (optional, to protect your clothes)
A camera (you're gonna want to take pictures)

SUBJECT PREPARATION: Make sure your subject understands the procedure. The "completely under" portion of the procedure takes about 15-20 minutes. Let them know that if, at any time, they panic that you can have them "out from under" in a matter of seconds. It will ruin the mold, but subjects are less likely to panic if they know they can get out if they need to. Agree ahead of time on some unmistakable panic signal (like raising both arms). Let them know that they will be able to breathe through their nose throughout the procedure and that you will be paying special attention to keeping their nostrils clear of alginate.

The subject's clothing should be adequately protected from the alginate, as neither it nor the plaster will launder out later. Most subjects will require the application of a bald-cap to protect the hair. Do not begin head casting on subjects with large amounts of facial hair (this is a more advanced topic). A small amount of Vaseline rubbed into mustaches, beards, sideburns and eyebrows will make the mold easier to remove. Do not put petroleum jelly on the skin, as this will make the alginate slide off too easily.

MATERIALS PREPARATION: Note: This is a fairly messy procedure. Take adequate precautions to avoid ruining carpeting, etc.

Unroll the plaster bandages and cut them into strips. There should be about 25% 6-inch strips and 75% 12-inch strips. Keep the scissors handy throughout the procedure. Fill a container (plastic, flat-bottomed, rectangular 12-inch by 18-inch with 6-inch walls is ideal) with about 3 inches of water.

Its best to have one person preparing the plaster bandages and one person applying them. This second person can also mix the alginate when it is time, and assist in its application.

When the plaster-bandage framework was completed, we mixed the Imperial BodyGel at a "3.5 to 1" ratio. That means 3.5 pounds of water to 1 pound of IBG. Mixing alginate by weight is always preferable to measuring by volume, because alginate is highly compressable and its can density vary significantly. We put our 3.5 pounds of 85°F water in our large Tupperware-type container, poured in the IBG and power mixed it for about 1 minute, until smooth. Its good to have the subject hold the container of alginate in their lap. It's easy to get to, not as likely to fall over as if it was on a table, and you don't have to drip alginate across the floor.

I know this sounds like its really hard, but its not. You'll probably make a few mistakes the first time. Learn from them.

The Procedure (click images to enlarge)

Make sure your subject is familiar with the procedure. Make sure to add vaseline anywhere plaster bandages touch the skin.	Wet bandage and place first one across the top of the head, just behind the widest part of the skull. This line is called the parting line.	Continue this line of bandages down the sides of the head, behind the ears...

...and out across the shoulders, as far down as you want the casting to be. Build up at least three layers of plaster strips.	Place small pieces of bandages behind ears to support them.	Be careful. Try not to distort the shape of the ear..

	Place several strips of bandages across the top of the back, connected at the shoulders to the first line across the top of the head.	Fill in the back of the head with vertical strips of bandages.

Continue filling in...	...and make sure....	... to connect to everything together.

There should be no less than four layers of bandages across the whole area.	Build up the "over-the-top" line...	...until it is 7 or 8 layers thick and very strong.

Make sure the area near the leading edge of the plaster is very smooth.		The leading edge of the plaster bandages should be just behind the widest part, or "equator" of the head.

You can see that this shell will have no problem slipping off the back of the head when it is time to remove it.	When the plaster strips dry, mark a black line about 1 inch behind the edge of plaster.	Mark the line all the way down to the shoulders.

Spread petroleum jelly on the plaster strip forward of the black line.	Make sure to fill all the small holes and depressions in this area.	The petroleum jelly will allow the two halves of the mold to separate easily.

Place a plaster strip across the front of the chest...	...down to where you want the casting to end.	Make sure to only overlap the back half up to the line.

This will allow the front to separate from the back. Make this front line at least 4 layers thick.	Attach the front strips to a set of strips across the top of the head, again at least 4 layers thick.	Do not allow these strips to go behind the black "Vaseline line".

Allow these plaster strips to set for a few minutes. This is called the "front framework".	Mix the Accu-Cast™. Use the guidelines above, or use your own preferences. Do not mix it too thin.	We use a "catheter-tip" syringe (no needle) to place the Accu-Cast™ into the folds of the ears. They are available at veterinary supply stores.

The better you fill the ear areas, the fewer bubbles and voids you will have to deal with later.	*Now comes the fun part*. Pick up a handful of Accu-Cast™ and plop it on top of the subjects head.	The goal is to completely cover the exposed part of the face and neck, overlapping the plaster bandages by about 1 inch.

Gently but firmly push alginate up into the corners of the eye sockets. Again, fewer air bubbles and voids is the goal. Work quickly but carefully.	Pay special attention to the end of the nose. You want to have sufficient thickness and coverage without pushing it up the nostrils. A popsicle stick makes a great tool for delicately placing alginate around the nasal openings.	Once the alginate is set...

...we are going to trim back the edge of the alginate...	...until there is...	...approximately...

one-half to three-quarter inches...	...of the plaster strips of the front framework exposed. Do not cut back as far as the black line.	Begin laying more strips along the edges, overlapping the now exposed half-inch of front framework.

First do the top-line and the across-the-chest line.	Then begin filling in the front area.	The whole front will want to have at least four layers of strips before you're done.

Try to lay the strips on in such a way that will help "support" the structure of the alginate mold.	The trickiest part, again, is the nose. You want to get sufficient coverage and support, but not cover the nasal openings.	Here is a rear view of the finished mold showing the parting line. You should still be able to see the black line.

Be sure to have a camera ready. These pictures are priceless.	Fairly often, ask the subject how they are doing. Remind them you are still here and that they are doing great.	Seems like there's a joker in every crowd. Just make sure not to frighten the subject with any horseplay.

Make sure the plaster bandages have completely set before you begin removing the mold. A few extra minutes here can mean the difference between a success and a failure.	Carefully begin working the seperating line open. Use a tool like a screwdriver if necessary. Don't worry if the front part flexes a little at this point.	Have the subject lean forward and help support the weight of the mold.

Let them take their time removing the front. Some hair may have stuck to the alginate or stone. Let them know you aren't in a rush. Be sure to dim the lights at this point so they will have a few seconds to get used to the light.	The finished mold is really something to see. You never get tired of seeing a new one.	Fine detail on the back half of the final cast is not as important as on the front, so the all-plaster shell works fine in 99% of the cases.
VERY IMPORTANT !!! Be sure to coat all plaster surfaces of the mold with petroleum jelly to prevent the Cast sticking to the Mold. Do not coat the alginate surfaces. If there are small tears in the Accu-Cast™, they can be quickly repaired using Super Glue. Plug the Nose holes with something: stone, cotton, or alginate to keep the stone from leaking out of the nostrils during pour-up. Refit the two halves of the mold together and secure with more plaster bandages. Mix a slightly thinner-than-usual gypsum cement mixture and coat the inside of the mold prior ot filling the mold with cement. There are several methods that can be used for doing a hollow "Easter egg" shell casting, but that is beyond the scope of this document. When filling the mold with gypsum cement, try to support it on something soft so all the weight isn't concentrated on one spot. This could distort the top of the head.